A couple of pointers I've gotten and I'll pass them on:
Measure your max cartridge length with your selected bullet. Take a fired piece of brass and put one of your bullets in it. Just place it in by hand so it still can slide around (no crip). Remove your barrel from your pistol. Push this dummy round into your barrel and the bullet will slide back into the case as when the bullet hits the lands of the rifling. Take the now shorter dummy round out and measure the over all length (OAL). If you take away 15 thousands that is the maximum OAL a cartridge can be with the current bullet you are using
. Most of the time you are going to be much less than this from manufacturers load data but now you know. You never want a bullet to be touching the rifling when it is loaded in to the chamber as it can lead to a pressure spike and a kaboom in the wrong direction. The bullet needs a slight amount of space to "run up" to the rifling to ensure the pressure is following it/pushing it out.
I typically start at the min load data from the powder manufacturer. I make ten or so, and then work up the powder charge in .1 to .2 grain increments. Then I go and shoot them making note of how they cycle the pistol and if they seem accurate. I've found that .2 grains can make all the difference in accuracy. Check for the soot around the end of the brass. A lot means that the "bang" is not enough to seal the brass to chamber enough to keep the gases in. Also check for primer flattening or coming loose. That is usually only a problem for heavier loads. You can also check the ejection distance to get an idea of how well the load is working. If they are all dropping very close you may be underloaded. Personally I am looking for a load on the lighter side to save powder and easier to shoot. But too little powder can be a problem too so I measure the powder depth and figure out based on the bullet thickness the "gap" between the top of the powder and the base of the bullet. There needs to be space but if the powder is so slight that it can lay on the side of the case it can all go off at once causing a kaboom. You really want it to burn back to front. I use cooler higher volume powders because of this myself.
Another thing to check once you have a load you like is if they function when shooting with your off hand. This ensures that even with a weaker hold will still function. Of course it can still be limp wristed but absent that it should work. I've found this usually makes me add just touch more powder.
For me reloading is a lot of fun I hope you are successful!
“I prefer peace. But if trouble must come, let it come in my time, so that my children can live in peace.” -Thomas Paine