Discuss handloading, reloading and presses here.
 #47621  by bluedog46
 
http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product. ... BIK-216322

i was wondering if you guys think this is a good one for a new reloader. I also have an offer out on a lee turrent press. I would need to purchase a powder dispenser with it and a die set

the one above i think i get all that with

thoughts
 #47637  by bluedog46
 
9mm as idiot proof as possible i am looking at this kit or kit i might buy from a member.

it sounds like i get everything i need but components for the bullets here.

with the other one its roughly hust a turret press with me having to get my own dies and powder dispenser
 #47653  by bluedog46
 
myopicvisionary wrote:I would go with a Dillon 550, but I am biased.

i hear dillon is good, but it is too pricey now and i want to get into reloading and my budget is around these.
 #47697  by Delta2Echo
 
bluedog46 wrote:http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product. ... BIK-216322

i was wondering if you guys think this is a good one for a new reloader. I also have an offer out on a lee turrent press. I would need to purchase a powder dispenser with it and a die set

the one above i think i get all that with

thoughts
That kit from Cabela's comes with everything you need to get started as far as the press goes. Dies, auto disk powder measure, shell plate, etc. The Pro 1000 is ok for pistol...horrible for .223, especially if you're using a ball powder as opposed to extruded. Ball powder flows a lot better, is more consistent as far as volume by default...but just gets all over the friggin place when loading that cartridge.

As far as for pistol, here are the problems I've run in to...

The way the primers feed is garbage. They can hang up and fail to feed to the push rod that seats them, resulting in the powder you charge the case with to pour right out of the flash hole all over the place. This causes even more of a feed issue with the primers because a lot of that powder goes right into the feeder and 'clogs' it.

Because of the way they feed, they can often go into the case inverted (granted, this can happen with hand priming as well if you don't pay attention), or they go in sideways which can be a real pain. The way shell plate is set up, if this happens you have to stop the process, see if you can get it to cycle back round to the priming/charging stage, ensure there are no primers on the push rod, then flatten the primer into the case as much as possible so you can remove it from the shell plate.

Timing of the shell plate rotation can be fussy at times as well, leading to a lot of frustration on the user side. Not everyone has these problems, of course. I like so many other instances, just happen to be one of the 'lucky' ones.

The Pro 1000 is an OK starter press if you can deal with the short comings, and most importantly, PAY ATTENTION TO EVERYTHING the press is doing. One tip I can give you for that Auto Disk measure is to MAKE SURE that you have the hopper no less than about 1/3 empty. It will fail to charge a case correctly, or even at all causing squibs. Everyone knows...or should know how dangerous a squib can be.

Currently...as much as I hate saying it, I resize and deprime my .40 cases on a single stage press. Then I prime them with a hand primer. From there they move into the Pro 1000 to get charged and have the bullet seated. This seriously elongates the process...but one day I will have my Hornady...ah, one day. As far as my rifles, they are single stage all the way.

Hope this helps. Feel free to ask me any questions you have.
 #47699  by Delta2Echo
 
may save you $10...check shipping cost for the both of them.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?p ... ber=428284

read the reviews there as well...a lot of people talking about the primer feed issues...I'm currently thinking of a way to resolve this myself with a bit of a jerry rig. let you know if I come up with anything.