Discuss handloading, reloading and presses here.
 #66229  by bluedog46
 
I hope this is the right place for this. Here is the thing. I eventually plan to reload, but have not had the chance to get up with some people who have offered to help me out with it as of yet. As I was advised on this board I began saving brass and asking other people for their brass when they did not want it.

I am sure I dont have as much brass as many people, but the wife wants me to do something with some of it. The thing is I have not had a chance to sort it yet and was figuring on keeping the .223 and 45 because of the vlaue and I have plenty of 9mm brass already.

Does anyone know what the going price is for raw brass ( not cleaned of deprimed) if I put it on gunbroker ect is?

If someone would let me use their equipment to reload I would also be more than willing to share some brass. I just need to get some 45 acp bullets orderd am should be good to go.

This is what sucks about a starter home as a townhouse ( small one). You run out of room quick.
 #66233  by viper98
 
my recomendation would be to clean and separate it if you plan on advertising it on gunbroker...if not then the value is probably more in what the scrap price might be.
 #67378  by WPCatfish
 
bluedog46 wrote: I am sure I dont have as much brass as many people, but the wife wants me to do something with some of it.
Hide it from her.
 #67688  by stephpd
 
Mixed brass won't get much money on Gunbroker.

Separated by caliber it's worth much more.

Separated by headstamp and you can get even more.(sometimes)

Cleaned and polished might get you more money. It certainly looks better in pictures. Old primers intact or deprimed doesn't seem to make any difference in selling price.

Reasons being;
Folks buying ammo brass want a certain caliber, not a bunch of sizes they may never use, or feel are not worth reloading.

Once they get the brass folks will generally polish them again anyway. Then sort by headstamp. Then deprime before doing any reloading.

At least that's what I always do. I've never used the sizer/ deprimer as one operation but as two separate operations. Even on my progressive press I don't like using the sizing die while I'm actually reloading. This is one die that takes lots of force and can mess up the 'feel' of everything else going on.

As to why I like separating by headstamp is all brass isn't exactly the same. Different brands weight differently.(different lots can vary too but that's harder to separate with used brass.) They have differing amounts of bras in the different sections of the brass. It might not make that much difference in pistol brass but then I'm kinda anal with reloading. I'd rather have several different lots of closely matched brass and lead then just have them all mixed up.

Even precision made projectiles (bullets) have a varying weight. I've found them to be off by a couple grams. Stuff sold as 160 grams can vary between 158 and 162 (or more).

I'd like to think that by keeping them separate I'd get tighter groupings since all the components at much more similar. Even with pistol ammo I strive for making match grade ammo. As close as possible identical brass, primers, powder, bullets and even depth of set and final crimp. Then boxed and recorded as such with all info on the box.