Delaware Open Carry

I was thinking, I could easily make larger metal targets for those interested.

If we could get a group of people interested in buying some Id be willing to make and sell them by order.

I can do any size/logo you would want.

If there is a real interest in this let me know.

What type of steel would you make them out of?

phlydude wrote:What type of steel would you make them out of?

3/8 for anything larger than a 22. 1/4 for 22 targets. I looked up sizes from other companies and that seems to be the sizes used. I can make them however large or thick you want though

I think he was asking more about the grade of steel you would use.

Speaking from experience, mild steel is best limited to non-magnum handgun rounds, preferably with lead bullets.

Now if you can get some AR500, I might be interested.

Sodbuster wrote:I think he was asking more about the grade of steel you would use.

Speaking from experience, mild steel is best limited to non-magnum handgun rounds, preferably with lead bullets.

Now if you can get some AR500, I might be interested.

Ah thanks for the heads up sod. If i can locate it locally I can use it. Gotta see what the price is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9UpB9jEDRE

Never heard of AR500. Now I know what the diff is. Damn

http://www.shootsteel.com/cutting-ar500-steel-plate/

Ok i give up on the idea, looks like a plasma cutter cant be used for stress reasons. Oh well.

All you'd need to do to correct for the Plasma cutting is a good heat and quench. http://www.wikihow.com/Harden-Steel

Even a laser cut really should have heat-treatment. Just because the HAZ is small it's still there on the edges making them softer if not re-hardened. If you had a water cutter it could do it with even less HAZ than the laser.

If you ask at our work you can find examples of welded items being re-heated and then cooled for different reasons, whether quickly for hardness or slowly to soften. When they replaced the vessel heads there were lots of great photos of the process.

Owen wrote:All you'd need to do to correct for the Plasma cutting is a good heat and quench. http://www.wikihow.com/Harden-Steel

Even a laser cut really should have heat-treatment. Just because the HAZ is small it's still there on the edges making them softer if not re-hardened. If you had a water cutter it could do it with even less HAZ than the laser.

If you ask at our work you can find examples of welded items being re-heated and then cooled for different reasons, whether quickly for hardness or slowly to soften. When they replaced the vessel heads there were lots of great photos of the process.

Yea but for a 30$ piece, its not worth it haha.

Dugan wrote:Yea but for a 30$ piece, its not worth it haha.

True but I wonder if you cut fast and then quenched it right away if that would overcome some of the softening. Kind of like old black smith stuff. Is the edge red hot after cutting? I think the problem is when it is left to air cool relatively slowly.

Sorry, may just be me over-thinking things again.